After my surprising stellar experience at Mulberry Street in Bayswater, I had no desire to try any other London pizza. My travels through various parts of the city over the last two days revealed several pizza offerings, none of which were at all visually appetizing. However, the Snob’s cultural half, Music City Mike, arrived early for his evening’s concert only to have Pizza Express next door staring me in the face. The pizzas I spotted through their window looked appealing and tempted me. Hungry with a new found sense of adventure, I thought I would give this place a try.

In business since 1965, Pizza Express is a poor name for this moderately upscale looking place. Their room stretches across most of a city block with a long window front looking out at the Great Portland Street tube station. There is table seating in a long room with their somewhat normal-looking pizza ovens in full view. They offered three different styles of pie and seemed keen on having quite an unusual variety of pizza in addition to some other menu items. As far as pizza chains go, it is hard to believe that a place this respectable looking has over 400 locations in the country.

As always I stuck with the basic which in their case was labeled as a Margherita under the category of “Classic.” There was a footnote to this section that mentioned it could be made in their “Romana” style which would be thinner and crispier. They also offered a “Leggera” style which was lighter in calories. I passed on the Romana option, so I could judge them on their standard fare. When I asked about my order, my lovely waitress said that my pie would be “plain,” and that most people did not like the thinner and crispier version—they thought it was too un-pizza like.

Getting used to London-speak, I ordered a bottle of “still”water and a “starter” Caesar salad to go along with my £7.80, 10-inch pizza. The salad was fine, but I chose to pass on the two full anchovies sitting atop the lettuce. The pie arrived shortly thereafter, and although it looked somewhat normal, it was not sliced. This made me glance around the room where I saw that everyone was “knife and forking” it. There was also a large basil leaf in the center which looked to be more for show rather than flavor.

Alternating between ripping and slicing with my knife, I did my best to pull off small triangles that I could fold and eat without the cheese falling off. The pie was noticeably quite tepid bordering on cold. The first taste to grab me was a slight tartness to the tomato sauce. The cheese and oil, however, tasted quite good, but the thin crust was soft and doughy with no crunch to it whatsoever. There were not any detectable spices. To be frank, by folding the pizza, it was akin to eating a tomato sauce and mozzarella cheese sandwich. The pie reminded me somewhat of the flatbread pizzas you see at a lot of American restaurants these days. All this made me wonder if I should have gone with the thinner and crisper version.

What I ate was by no means awful:  It was just far from Snob-worthy pizza. Pizza Express is a quality place using fine ingredients and presenting a high standard of service. It is certainly a place where a “toppings lover” could really enjoy some of their gourmet offerings. I was glad that I gave Pizza Express a try, but their diversion from classic pizza just didn’t do it for me.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     **1/2 Not a Total Waste

Pizza Express
215-217 Great Portland Street
London, W1W 5PN, UK
44 20 7580 2272
www.pizzaexpress.com

The Pizza Snob is always looking for direction in his never-ending search for great pizza. Last year, I found a great source hanging on the wall at the famous Patsy’s in Harlem. It was a New York Times article by noted food critic Ed Levine listing six great pizza slices in the five boroughs of New York City. In addition to Patsy’s, Levine picked three others that I had already visited: Di Fara Pizza in Brooklyn, Joe & Pats in Staten Island and Joe’s Pizza in Manhattan. The two I had yet to visit were Louie and Ernie’s in the Bronx and Nunzio’s in Staten Island which I decided to check out on my last trip home.

Travelling into Brooklyn for some musical entertainment, I detoured off the Staten Island Expressway to find Nunzio’s sitting in a lone brick building on the busy corner of Hylan Boulevard and Midland Avenue. Navigating the turning city buses, I parked in their small lot on the side. There I noticed the irony of such a notable pizza joint situated next to a strip center housing a Papa John’s. Why?

Though there was a dining entrance on the Midland Avenue side, I entered instead through the front door finding Nunzio’s pizza control center. In this small room was a long tall marble counter where you could stand and scarf a slice while watching the crew at work.

Nunzio’s is family-run and has served pies on the Island since 1947. Pizza-centric for sure, they do offer an assortment of other Italian dishes. They are also the first pizza joint that I have ever seen mention in their menu the type of cheese that they use. Nunzio’s features Polly-O Fresh Mozzarella, a consumer product with roots in Coney Island.

I ordered a plain cheese slice for $2.00 noticing that they also do a Sicilian slice for $2.50. While I waited, I watched pies got out the door as fast as they could make them! After all, it was late Friday afternoon, and many dinner time phone orders were being filled for customer pickup.

Watching them at work, I saw that they used small cubes of mozzarella which when melted, resulted in small circles of cheese on the thin layer of tomato sauce. It now struck me that this was how Joe and Pat’s made their pizza. This led me to think “Was this a Staten Island pie?”

The vibe at Nunzio’s had me on edge knowing I was about to taste something special.  I found it to be about as crisp as could be. It was firm and blackened on both top and bottom. Reheated for a good five minutes, it was hot and it burned the already pizza-worn roof of my mouth. The tomato sauce was dark, rich and zesty, and the Polly-O mootz was delish. There was a tasty layer of olive oil that also graced the end crust making it wonderfully shiny. Overall, this was a chewy, crispy, crunchy delight. My drive on to Brooklyn was blessed with the delightful garlic aftertaste and the memory of a fabulous slice of pizza.

Nunzio’s has created a unique slice of pizza through its crispiness and the lightness of cheese and sauce. It is a classic unto itself and is one that I definitely will return for. It was delicious, delicious, delicious!  Get yourself over to Nunzio’s.

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***** Sets the Standard

Nunzio’s
2155 Hylan Blvd.
Staten Island, NY  10306
718-667-9647
[no website]

Original Review: 11/23/12

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing    

Wow! I am not sure how The Pizza Snob let this one slip by, but after 30 years in business, the owners of Pizza Perfect Kebob have hung up their aprons and retired. You can read about it here in a post by the sad students of neighboring Lipscomb University.

As the closest pizza joint to my office, I will miss the place. In a strange change of events, The Well coffee shop now occupies their space after being displaced by the 15-story office building now under construction in the middle of Green Hills.

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING     R.I.P

Pizza Perfect Kebob
4002 Granny White Pk.
Nashville, TN 37204 615-297-0345
www.pizzaperfectgrannywhite.com

Original Review: 10/07/12

PIZZA SNOB RATING   ** Why Did I Waste Those Calories? 

Once again, it is vacation time on the beach for The Pizza Snob!

While checking in on some of the pizza joints I visited before, I came across a jewelry store where Bruno’s Pizza once resided. Thinking they would move to the R.I.P. list, I later came across a flyer at a bicycle shop noting that they moved to a much less visible location at Water Sound Beach.

I wasn’t up for giving Bruno’s a retry, but watch for some future updates from the Florida Panhandle!

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING  ** Why Did I Waste Those Calories? 

Bruno’s Pizza
6652 East County Highway 30-A
Water Sound Beach, FL 32413
850-231-1452
http://brunospizza30a.com/

I have a friend living in New York City who is a “foodie.” You know, the food nerd who is incessantly trying new restaurants and tweeting photos of dishes before eating them. Nonetheless, I highly regard what he has to say about pizza since we both share the opinion that Joe’s Pizza in the Village is the best New York slice on the planet. Being a foodie opens you up to a wider culinary universe, and for two years now he has been telling me to try the Neapolitan wares over at Motorino in the East Village.

Although Neapolitan is not my style, I can find satisfaction in this space. On a lovely Saturday spring morning, Bro and I parked the car by Washington Square Park and took a brisk walk over to East 12th Street. There we found Motorino’s small open air dining room, a tiny shotgun room with no more than ten tables.  While sitting at a table by the window, I watched the flames of the wood-burning oven in the open kitchen and learned of their other location in Brooklyn as well as other ones in Hong Kong and Manila—an unusual road to expansion. To be as trendy as Motorino, their chef is well-known of course–although simple me has already forgotten his name.

Their menu is salads and pizza. As far as toppings go, no pepperoni here.  Instead, there are fancy foodie favorites like Brussels sprouts and clams. You will also find the foodie’s fave beverage—wine. There are a few types of “pizze” to choose from, and our first attempt was to get both a Marinara and a Margherita. The waitress, thankfully, stopped us with a courtesy alert that the former came without cheese. Noting that we could add cheese, my reluctance to revise standard pizza menus had us revert to twin Margheritas which cost us $15 each.

The pies, small 10-inchers cut into four wide slices, looked tasty and typical to the Neapolitan style. Being a devout lover of crispy crust, the blackened bubbles on the end crust raised an eyebrow. The mozzarella cheese was scattered amongst a small pool of tomato sauce and olive oil, and the sprinkling of a few basil leaves made the colors of the Italian flag complete.

Despite not being my preferred style of pizza, there is no argument that Motorino offers a tasteful delicacy. Made with fine, fresh ingredients, it was truly a delicious work of art. My common complaint of the Neapolitan style pie remains since it was a soupy and sloppy in the middle. Eating it requires the skill of properly folding the slices, so things don’t start falling off of the thin layer of crust.  Although cooked fairly well done, this type pie just doesn’t get very crisp. The crust, nevertheless, was quite tasty and chewy.

Knowing that I’m the wrong guy to be reviewing a place like Motorino, don’t let me scare you away from the place. It really is a first-class gourmet establishment. In addition to its tasty pizze, it has that special restaurant charm you can only find in Manhattan.   Overall, the Motorino pie has a light taste that doesn’t wear you down with a heavy stomach.

P.S. Bro liked it but he said he still prefers a big, greasy, NY style slice. I told him not to worry since the Snob always has another place to try!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ****Near Perfection

Motorino
349 E. 12th Street
New York, NY  10003
212- 777-2644
www.motorinopizza.com

This latest Pizza Snob lead came courtesy of musician Richard Barone who wouldn’t know me from the Man in the Moon. A DJ pal of mine (listen to his great “Pop Top” show on-line every Friday at 5 pm Central) who is friends with Barone on Facebook pointed me to his direction. Barone was the leader of the great Hoboken band The Bongos. In 1997 as a solo artist, he released a chamber-pop masterpiece entitled Cool Blue Halo that was recorded live at New York City’s The Bottom Line.

Barone’s lead sounded promising, although I was initially surprised that someone would spotlight an NY-style slice place so close to Snob Hall of Fame spots like Joe’s Pizza and Bleecker Street Pizza. Nonetheless, I made Rivoli Pizza Restaurant a target on my latest trip back to the City.

Rivoli sits right next to the famous Village Vanguard jazz club on busy Seventh Avenue. You can forget about parking nearby, so my Bro was out-of-luck. He had to just let me out of the car to grab a quick slice. Their sign boasted “Pizza*Pasta*Heros*Burgers.”  This joint looked about as classic as an NYC “street-slice” pizza place can get. Rivoli’s also offers wine and beer in addition to one of my fave treats—Italian Ices.  (I’m partial to cherry.) Noting an ATM inside, I failed to check, but I reckon they may be cash-only.

A plain cheese slice set me back $2.50. Since the doors were open on this lovely spring day, I opted for a pleasant sit-down pizza-eating experience in their small room while Bro circled the block. After about 3 to 4 minutes reheating in the big oven, my slice came out as it should–piping hot. I was a little surprised that its end crust looked thicker and wider than the norm.

All the way through was a fine slice of pizza—crisp and tasty right down to the extra crust on the end. I enjoyed eating every morsel. Making a slice otherwise trim and thin, Rivoli is a perfect purveyor of the Snob’s should-be-patented “Fold and Rip” technique. I did experience a little cheese run-off which was likely the result of my impatience in not allowing for the proper cool-down that a slice this hot requires.

The busy-ness happening at Rivoli said it all—this is a great place for a slice. I have now found the third leg of what I will dub the “Greenwich Village Pizza Triangle,” consisting of Joe’s, Bleecker, and Rivoli. These are three perfect, classic NY-style slices that won’t steer you wrong.

A few weeks later, I came upon Rivoli Pizza II while walking over on Hudson Street. I’m not sure of its connection with this Rivoli, and I will give it a try at a later date.

Thanks go out to Richard Barone for the tip. This guy knows his pizza as well as his pop!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ***** Sets the Standard

Rivoli Pizza Restaurant
176 7th Avenue S.
(Near 11th Street) New York, NY 10014
212-691-2704
[no website]

So much has happened here in Music City since January 2013 when the New York Times called us America’s new “it” city. For one, there has been the flurry of new but disappointing pizza joints. Following on the heels of Music City Pizza and Al Taglio is Luigi’s City Pizza which recently opened downtown on Third Avenue, a few steps off of Lower Broadway next to the new Johnny Cash Museum.

I invited a few of my work buddies for lunch to give Luigi’s a try. Having to pay for parking downtown is always a drag, but we managed it with just a few bucks and a short walk. Inside, we found Luigi’s to have a lively barroom atmosphere, learning that the place is merely an extension of the Tequila Cowboy nightclub around the corner. It was built as a place for late night partiers to munch out! Luigi’s featured a first for me, small television screens at each booth.  The booths were in the center of the music-themed room flanked by a long bar on one side and tables on the other. There was also a stage in the corner.

The pies on the diners’ tables looked promisingly classic and thin, so I eagerly ordered a couple of cheese slices ($3.25 each) alongside a hopefully healthy salad. One of my friends did a pair with pepperoni while the other went for a calzone. After waiting an extra-long time, our apologetic waiter finally delivered our goods. To appease me, one of the slices he brought me was a miss-cut monstrosity twice as large as it should be. This three for the price of two should have been a bonus, but I would soon find that it would just prolong my agony.

The slices were ultra-thin, but the crust was soggy. They were so floppy that they were nearly impossible to pick up and eat without using two hands. They were also cold and clammy. Scoping out the room, I saw that Luigi’s pull their slices from a batch sitting under a heat lamp above the bar. This unfortunate process just sucked out any crispness my slices may have once had.

On the good side, the cheese and sauce with a touch of oregano were tasty. The pie was quite light on the stomach.   The lightness factor is only a good thing when you are enjoying what you are eating! My slices tasted like cold pizza warmed up the next morning in the microwave. This was a total failure in execution!

The reports on the pepperoni slices and the calzone were no more favorable. Luigi’s pizza had potential with a good design and quality ingredients. It’s a nice addition to the downtown landscape, but certainly a place to avoid if you are looking for a good slice of pizza. Maybe a whole pie fresh out of the oven would fare better than a slice.  I’m not sure if I’m willing to give it another try after this dismal experience.

PIZZA SNOB RATING **1/2 Not a Total Waste

Luigi’s City Pizza
105 3rd Avenue South Nashville, Tennessee 37201
615-742-9099
[no website]

My first pizza adventure in Atlantic City was a big bust on the Boardwalk. So this time out, I put my car in the Park Place and set out to the city streets in search of something better. Monopolizing a beautiful spring Sunday afternoon, I took the short hike from my stay at Caesar’s Palace to Jonuzi’s Pizza, one of the more recommended local places on the web.

Around since 1993, Jonuzi’s store front is in a fairly active commercial district that offers some tough competition. There are two local pizza joints directly across the street! I found Jonuzi’s to be fairly typical of a Jersey joint: a small room with Formica booths and a menu of pizza and subs. With a nod to HBO’s Boardwalk Empire, a sign offered some specials named after the show’s characters. (Anyone in the mood for a Nucky’s Special?) They also deliver.

With no pizza visible, I really was not sure what I was in for at Jonuzi’s. Seeing that a single slice would set me back $2.75, I thought I was about to be paying the Luxury Tax for being in AC. When I saw the size of my slice (plain cheese of course), my jaw dropped—that sucker was big. It was at least a foot long and was served across two standard white paper plates. It clearly rivals Hoboken’s legendary Benny Tudino’s for serving up the largest slice in the Garden State. I asked the chef how big a pie it was cut from to no avail. He either didn’t know or was too busy on his iPhone to tell me.

The slice was constructed very well despite being oversized. Cheese, sauce and crust all checked in at the right quantities. It was oily–evidenced by the drain on the plates–but it turned out to be quite pleasant tasting on the tongue. Overall this was a delicious slice, gently seasoned with some oregano. The crust was crisp, and the cheese hung on just right without any slippage. There was a mild musty aftertaste that I am not whether it came from the cheese or the crust. Was it a lack of freshness that made this a less-than-perfect experience?

I didn’t have the time or appetite to test the competition across the street. Taste and value wise, though, I think I made the correct choice. I’d go back.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ****Near Perfection

Jonuzi’s Pizza
2309 Atlantic Avenue (between Mississippi and Georgia)
Atlantic City, NJ  08401
609-347-6666
www.jonuziac.com

Gambling bores me which means that AC trips with Mom and Dad are usually nothing more than another excuse to try some new pizza joints. Last year, I busted on the Boardwalk while earlier in the day I fared much better at Jonuzi’s. Finding room in my gut for some more carbs, I walked north on Atlantic Avenue searching for Tony Baloney’s. I wasn’t expecting anything special after viewing their website where I saw that they also have a location in Hoboken.

After crossing several streets with names from the Monopoly board, I found Tony B’s tucked away in a rather isolated section of town. Their food area took over the bottom floor of what looked like an old beach house. While the windy day emptied the outside picnic tables, business inside the room with a “beachy” feel was rather brisk.

As I lined up at the counter, I spotted a chalk board listing a dozen or so uniquely named specialty slices under the heading “Indigenous AC Style.” My pick was the most basic one at the very top called the “Old Man Brooklyn.” Its description (fresh mozz, marinara, pecorino and basil) sounded very much like something I would find in my second favorite New York City borough.

The slices sitting on the counter were all of the more adventurous variety, so I was forced to buy a full 12-inch pie which cost me $13. I ordered it to go with plans of eating a few slices on site and bringing the rest back to the hotel. Due to a misunderstanding, I missed their call, and sadly my pie sat atop the oven until I asked about it. As a result, it wasn’t piping hot, but I managed to catch it at the perfect temperature for safe eating.

Tony B’s pizza had me right from the first bite. A word I don’t get to use often enough to describe pizza is unique, and this one certainly was. Crafted in a basic Margherita style (blotchy cheese melted from cubes), what truly set this pie apart was by far the tastiest tomato sauce I have ever had. It was dark rich and boldly delicious, bordering on being sweet. The pie crust was delightfully chewy without being overly crisp. A pinch of basil and a sprinkling of pecorino were the perfect touches atop the tasty Mozzarella. These ingredients came together to produce an absolutely wonderful flavor extravaganza!

I managed to eat three slices on site before bringing the rest back for the family. They loved it as much as I did! While Tony B’s pizza isn’t the classic New York-style that you expect to find at the beach, it is one excellent pizza worthy of the Snob’s highest award.

Tony Baloney’s offers real character and charm in addition to a uniquely world-class pizza. If you find yourself in AC, I encourage you to take a break from the gaming tables and pay them a visit. They are a guaranteed winner!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ***** Sets the Standard

Tony Baloney’s
300 Oriental Ave. (Corner of S. Vermont)
Atlantic City, NJ
609-344-8669
www.tonybaloneys.com

Original Review: 08/22/12

PIZZA SNOB RATING     **** Near Perfection

Over the years, the Pizza Snob has made many visits to Pizza Perfect on 21st Street in Nashville. I figured it was about time that I visited their Bellevue location. I did so recently when Mrs. Pie and I found ourselves on the west side of town.

Bearing little resemblance to the other joint, this spot sits on the end of a strip mall. Its space converges with a children’s game center. Inside, I was disappointed to see that they did not have the slick conveyor belt slice warmer like the other place.

It was a late Saturday afternoon, and things were slow. I saw that the lone cheese slice sitting on the counter would soon be mine. After a lengthy (three-to-four minutes) reheat in the oven, it came out covered with quite a bit of “test cheese” on top that they used to time the reheat.

My wider than usual slice ($2.50) was steaming hot but turned out to be a bit soggy. Although the bottom crust was blackened, it didn’t get very crisp until I got to the crunchy end.  Seasoned with oregano, it was overall tasty. The cheese became a little runny adding to the slight disappointment of my late afternoon, leftover slice. Nonetheless, I am forgiving as this still was an enjoyable snack. I know that better timing would have gotten me a fresher one for sure.

All things considered, with its adjoining game center, Pizza Perfect is a much better place for you to enjoy some real pizza instead of taking your kids to Chuck E.Cheese’s!

PIZZA SNOB RATING     **** Near Perfection

Pizza Perfect
357 Clofton Drive Nashville, TN  37221
615-646-7877
http://pizzaperfectonline.com/

Original Review: 08/12/12

Previous Rating: ***1/2 Working On A Good Thing

It had been a long time since I had some hometown pie at Sal’s Family Pizza. Chalk it up to a mediocre experience last time out and an abundance of new places to try. I recently needed a meeting place for a bunch of computer geeks (self included–long story) and thought that Sal’s would be the perfect location. Although I was the only one to get pizza, the cheese slice I had as a starter to my chicken parm dinner left me pleasantly surprised.

Last visit, my whole pie experience felt a little too heavily cheesed and doughy. But, this latest thin and crispy effort made Sal’s clearly worthy of an upgrade. In this world of competitive pizza, it’s the slice that matters, and Sal’s scored!

Although my wide and thin slice was hidden from my preview, the “test-cheese” on top made it evident that it went through a reheat—a good one for that matter. My slice was tastefully chewy and crisp making me sorry I didn’t order another. Although it was a tad soggy, it had a delightfully crunchy end crust. Delicious cheese and sauce had me thinking for a minute that I was in New Jersey.

I know that next time I’m driving past Sal’s I will find it hard to not stop in for a quick one!

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING     **** Near Perfection

Sal’s Family Pizza
595 Hillsboro Rd. Franklin, TN 37064
615-472-8387
www.mysals.com

By now you’d think that I would have visited all of the decent pizza joints in my hometown of Bayonne, New Jersey. Well, perhaps not. On my last trip home, I found another great place that I somehow overlooked. This was odd since my Pizza Compass shows it as one of the closest to my family’s home. In business since 1950, Naples Pizzeria & Restaurant isin the Bergen Point district on Broadway just a few blocks south of the 8th Street Bridge.

It was a Monday evening, and the thought of something new for takeout dinner made Naples a prime target for The Pizza Snob. Mom jumped right on the bandwagon telling me about their Mon-Wed-Sun special of two large thin pies for only $12.95. Dad was less excited telling me the hard-to-believe fact that he once got a pie from Naples, and they left off the cheese.

Still early in the evening when I arrived, only one couple was dining in the small darkened room. With no more than just a few tables and booths, the decor of white Christmas lights and Tiffany lampshades made the dining room look like a hip 1960s basement. The inside floor plan made me theorize that their business storefront was likely converted from a home.

The lady working the back kitchen came out and took my order of two plain cheese pies to go. She even gave me a gentle reminder that the pizza was thin. With such a small crowd, I was surprised that my pies took much longer than I expected, but I suspect there were quite a few deliveries being readied.

Naples’ pie is ultra-thin and light on all the basic ingredients. Although I lost count, I must have eaten at least eight slices of this “goes down nice & easy” tasty pizza. It is a bit tricky to eat though. Without much crust to support things, the slices are quite limp. You still can (and since this is Jersey, you of course must) eat them by hand, but you will need some help from both hands to get that first bite into your mouth.

The cheese and tomato sauce were a delicious blend atop the light tasty crust. The car smelled like garlic all the way home attesting to the source of the delightful seasoning added to the sauce. The narrow end crust was blackened and crunchy while the rest of the crust was not crispy. This may be more of a personal style point, but I would have preferred a crisper bottom which is my only knock on this otherwise perfectly unique, thin pizza.

I now understand how Dad once thought Naples forgot the cheese! Today, his story changed to “we got these pies cheap, since they cut back on the cheese!” Well, I for one am glad that they did since they have come up with a special pizza that should make Bayonne proud. I can’t wait to go back.

P.S. Be prepared, since Naples is cash only with no checks or cards accepted!

PIZZA SNOB RATING ****1/2 Nearer Perfection

Naples Pizzeria & Restaurant
191 Broadway Bayonne, NJ 07002
201-437-8879
www.naplespizza.org

In the last quarter century, New York City has noticeably bettered its appearance. The actions of wise visionary leadership atop a robust economy have led to an influx of new commerce and an enhanced infrastructure. Both have helped ooze out a great deal of the crime, sleaze and filth that once made NYC an undesirable destination.

Perhaps no part of the City has been more transformed than Times Square. No longer lined with porn and prostitutes, this once rotten part of the Big Apple, has again become a thriving tourist center. Sadly, this Midtown Mecca offers out-of-towners no five-star classic New York-style pizza. Outside of the usual chains they can find back home in Kansas and a mediocre Ray’s Pizza, I have yet to find a truly great slice of pizza in Times Square.

I was recently in Midtown Manhattan for a business meeting with an associate visiting from the Left Coast. He graciously offered to buy me lunch at the only New York pizza place he knew, John’s Pizzeria of Times Square. New to me, John’s was built in 1997 when they rode the wave of the Time Square redevelopment reconstructing their space from an old abandoned church. Disclaiming any connection to John’s of Bleecker Street, they have used their location-based name to expand to Jersey City and the Bronx.

Taking a beautiful midday walk, we found John’s on 44th Street right next to Sardis, the famous bastion of Theater District dining. On the late side of lunch, we were surprisingly seated without a wait. Inside, I was slammed by the sheer size and beauty of the place. There is a huge bar area as you enter and three distinct dining areas, one of which is on a balcony overlooking their coal-fired pizza oven. I wasn’t surprised when I later saw their claim of being the largest pizza restaurant in the United States. But knowing that size and looks don’t matter, I started to fear that we were about to experience nothing more than an over-priced Times Square tourist trap with bad food.

Menu in hand, I took notice of the message clearly printed on the back of our waitress’s T-shirt: “No Slices.” Forced to order a whole pie, and with our tastes going in different directions, I ordered a small plain cheese (a six-slice $14.25 “Traditional”) while my host loaded his up with some meats. Like the other John’s, and unlike the guys in Brooklyn, they use their coal ovens to cook up a regular pizza in addition to a “Margherita.”

Our pizzas didn’t take long at all. Visually they looked a bit odd with their blackened coal-fired crust covered with an unusual cheese and tomato sauce swirl. I liked its thin crispy look and charred end crust although it was obvious that my pie had too much cheese. Diving in, I wasn’t disappointed at all with its delicious satisfying coal-fired taste. This was no tourist-trap pizza.

However, there was a downfall to the heavy layering of cheese. Being so thick, it was congealed in a few spots where it didn’t melt sufficiently. It was also runny at the tips where it was just too heavy for its crust. Simply stated it would have cooked better if there just wasn’t so much cheese. I was also disappointed that the pie was not served hotter. It cooled off pretty fast, and my last slice was unsatisfying.

All in all this was a neat place serving up a tasty pizza made with fine ingredients. Any time you get to eat pizza cooked over the coals is a special experience. Like John’s of Bleecker Street, I like that they are cooking a traditional pizza over coal. Maybe next time John’s of Times Square will use a less cheese and get me mine a little hotter for what would be a much better pizza experience!

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing    

John’s Pizzeria of Times Square
260 W. 44th Street
New York, NY  10036
212-391-7560
www.johnspizzerianyc.com

There are quite a few pizza joints that I visited before I became the self-anointed Pizza Snob. Recently I returned to one that I enjoyed despite it not being a purveyor of classic New York-style pizza.

On our way to the Florida Panhandle for our annual beach vacation, Mrs. Pie and I took a break in our drive for a late Saturday afternoon lunch at Tomatinos Pizza & Bake Shop. Retracing our steps from a few years ago, we exited the Interstate and ventured about 2 miles east into the vintage Old Cloverdale neighborhood. Down a lane of willow trees adorned with Spanish moss, this funky old joint sits in a row of storefronts across the street from an old independent movie theater.

As their name might imply, Tomatinos pizza focus is more from the aspect of a bakery than an Italian restaurant. (In other words, it seems more crust-driven.) Around since 1995, they boast of their local fresh healthy fare serving up both traditional and whole wheat crusts. Their menu includes salads, calzone, and a focaccia sandwich. Beer and wine are also served. These same folks operate the adjoining Cafe Louisa where you can find baked goods, small lunch items and gelato.

Tomatino’s operates a small room with just a few tables and booths. (There is limited outdoor seating which we passed over in the 90 degree heat.) They sell slices at lunch time, but upon our late arrival we found just two lone slices left: plain cheese on a whole wheat crust. Rather than waiting for a fresh whole pie with traditional crust, I decided that I would have my first ever taste of whole wheat crust.

My slices did not take long to reheat and came out served on a small silver tray alongside an apparently unnecessary knife and fork. Although these babies were not classic NY slices (about twice as thick as they needed to be) they were toasted crisp. They looked rock solid firm and ready to hold although too thick to fold. However, I got quite a surprise when my first bite broke the slice in half! Mrs. Pie theorized that this was likely from a whole wheat slice having less gluten to hold things together. Despite this lack of cohesiveness, the pizza was toasted brilliantly, and the crust had a nice crunchy chewy taste.

I was quite overjoyed with the bright refreshing taste of the whole wheat. It really brought the slices to life making the crust sparkle with flavor. The 100% part skim mozzarella was also way delicious, and the tomato sauce was and rich tangy. Tomatino’s treat was about as tasty as a non-classic slice of pizza could be. For the record, my second slice did not fall apart.

Tomatinos is well-worthy of another visit—if not just for the pizza but for the fabulous salads and yummy addictive gelato. If there is a next time I will probably give their traditional crust a try. Likewise, I am now looking forward to trying someone else’s whole wheat crust to see how it compares—the Snob may have entered a new realm.

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Thing    

Tomatinos Pizza & Bake Shop
1036 E. Fairview Avenue
Montgomery, AL  36106
334-264-4241
www.tomatinos.com

During our annual beach vacation in the beautiful Florida Panhandle, Mrs. Pie had a need to go to the mall. Since we were staying on the east end of 30A, that meant we would take a trip over to the mega Pier Park outdoor shopping center in Panama City Beach. On the drive over I kept my pizza radar on to see if I could find a joint worthy of a visit.

Riding along the beach road, my eyes spotted a large sign saying “Pizza by the Slice” atop a local-looking joint called Panama Pizzeria. It was fairly close to Pier Park so I dropped Mrs. Pie off and headed back for a quick slice rather than taking my usual nap in the car while she shopped.

I pulled into a spot in front of their narrow free-standing building and was immediately impressed by the parking bumper painted in the colors of the Italian flag. Inside the atmosphere was part bar and part pizza joint. Business activity was brisk with both the tables inside full and the deliveries and pickups heading outside flowing.

Approaching the counter, I spotted two slice pies under glass: a full pepperoni pie on one silver tray and a lone cheese slice on another. At that point I knew that the puny leftover slice was about to be mine.

A young guy (“Pizza Dude”) took my order and subsequently my slice ($2.95) which he plopped into the conventional pizza oven at the far end of the counter. I chose to stand and wait there where I could witness the hustle and bustle of the place. I focused on Pizza Dude who seemed busy but confused. Most of the time he looked unsure about what he should be doing. The one thing he sure wasn’t doing was watching my slice! Pizza Dude was making me nervous.

As time moved on, I had no luck whatsoever in getting Pizza Dude’s attention about my forgotten slice. I figured that he would at least see the lone slice when he was going in and out of the oven, but I had no such luck. Finally some twenty minutes later he somehow remembered my long lost slice. He then made one of the worst decisions in food-serving history and served me this past due slice inside a small pizza box.

Had it not been for this blog, I would have rejected this poor burnt and overcooked slice on the spot. Little did Pizza Dude realize that he had just blown Panama Pizzeria’s chance to get a fair review from the Pizza Snob. Nonetheless, I took it to a table to further examine.

My slice was completely burnt to a crisp and stiff as a board. The cheese was cooked to the point it had shriveled up and was barely traceable. The end crust was so charred that it was inedible. This was murder! I forced myself through enough of it to see if I could find anything redeeming in this pizza fatality.

The tomato sauce seemed to taste fine, and the dimensions looked about right. Underneath this disaster, Panama’s pizza might have been worthy of a better rating. The Snob is forgiving, and maybe next summer this place will get a chance for redemption. I wonder though if Pizza Dude will have found another job by then.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     *1/2 Thinking About the Trashcan

Panama Pizzeria
17140 Front Beach Road
Panama City Beach, FL
850-249-7437
www.panamapizzeria.com

Original Review: 10/07/12

Previous Rating: ***1/2 Working On A Good Thing

Two summers ago, The Pizza Snob travelled across the Florida Panhandle’s Highway 30-A looking for good pizza. Hands down, the most authentic and tastiest pie I found was at Enzo’s Italian Restaurant. Previously located on the west end of 30-A in Santa Rosa Beach, last year, Enzo’s moved up north to Highway 98. Although it can no longer technically be said to have the best pizza on 30-A, my return trip this summer found it to still be the best in the area. In fact, it has even gotten a little better.

The two sisters that once ran the place have since moved on and been replaced by the owner. Although the pizzas each made were quite similar, the owner claims that they diluted the original recipes, and he has now gotten it back to form. Let me just tell you that all three Long Island natives know what they are doing, and there is no need to argue over who made the better pie.

Mrs. Pie and I made a mid-week visit to Enzo’s and started our evening of fine Italian dining with a small 12-inch cheese pizza ($14.00). To get right to the point, Enzo’s pizza is absolutely delicious, and I now realize that I was a little stingy on my previous rating. Hot right out of the oven, our pie was one of the freshest I have ever tasted. It was cooked crisp with a nicely charred crust on the bottom. Each small slice stood firm despite a dough content that was slightly thicker than usual. The heavy end crust though wound up being a little on the puffy side.

Apart from excellent execution, the extra tasty touches in the preparation of this pie were what made it truly special: a heavy dose of parmesan cheese and an strong flavoring of garlic. It was lightly sauced and gently sprinkled with oregano.  A lush layer of olive oil looked like it was painted on top of the cheese. While some of these add-ons may have taken this pie a little off tradition, they nonetheless contributed towards making it a unique delicious delight.

I strongly encourage you to visit Enzo’s if you ever are on the Panhandle. Although it is a little out of the way, it will be one of the culinary highlights of your holiday. Their great pizza will be just a sideline to what will be one of your best Italian dining experiences ever. You will also be glad to meet the warm and friendly owner.

NEW PIZZA SNOB RATING     ****1/2 Nearer Perfection
Enzo’s Italian Restaurant
Emerald Coast Shopping Plaza 3906 Highway 98 West #5 & #6
Santa Rosa Beach, FL. 32459
850 -267-3003
wwwmyenzos.com

When local radio station Lightning 100 kicked off the sixth season of its Live on the Green outdoor concert series, there was a new addition to the line-up of food trucks parked along Deaderick Street. Joey’s on Wheels, the pizza truck run by Joey’s House of Pizza, was there doing a brisk business.

At usual captive festival prices, they were selling cheese ($4.50) or pepperoni ($5.50) slices as well as their famous Gladiator ($10.00). Yours truly will attest that the truck product was no different from the usual pizza perfection of their regular Nashville location.

You can visit the Joey’s truck at Live on the Green (downtown in front of the Courthouse) for two more Thursdays (August 21 and 28). They will not be there for the three-day weekend series finale due to a prior commitment.

Watch their Facebook page for future appearances by the truck. It’s also available for private catering!

Every summer seems to bring at least one new pizza to Florida’s 30-A. This year’s offering is from the Acme Ice House in Seacrest Beach. A rather elaborate establishment with a Happy Days 50s feel, Acme focuses on good old American staples like burgers, fried foods and pizza. (The Brooklyn Meatball Sub sure sounded good.) Those wanting something stronger than their milk shake need not worry since Acme is more of a sport bar than an Al’s Drive-In. There are also salads for those counting calories.

Acme took over the former Chops steak house location near the Village of South Walton complex. Their large space includes some seating on the outside and a dining room (in view of their two pizza ovens) and a bar area on the inside. Mrs. Pie and I sat in the bar under the big screen TVs, but we were more interested in the classy collection of original black and white photos of 70s rockers like Springsteen, Costello and The Ramones.

With our mission nothing more than a late afternoon snack, we ordered a Housemade Mozzarella ($14.00) from the top of their list of Wood Fired Pies. Described as having San Marzano tomato sauce and fresh basil, it sure sounded more like a Margherita rather than a good old greasy American pie.

After only a short wait, my hunch about the pie was correct. It looked like something right out of Brooklyn, but nonetheless, it was hot, fresh and appetizing. It didn’t take more than a few bites to label this one as delicious.

As far as Margheritas go, Acme’s pie was more on the thin side. The crust was nicely blackened and was crisp enough that you could almost eat the slices as it they were NY-style. On the top, the blotched cheese and olive oil were both quite tasty. The plentiful covering of basil leaves added some fresh flavor. The tomato sauce however tasted somewhat pale. This led Mrs. Pie to doctor things up with some basic salt and oregano. In addition to the always optional pizza peppers, her extra seasoning really seemed to do the trick.

To the Pizza Snob, getting a good Margherita pie is still second best to a great classic New York slice–something that 30-A proper still lacks. However, for lack of anything better, this offering by Acme may very well be the tastiest pizza you will find there. And by all means, a fun place with simpler fare like the Acme Ice House is certainly a much better use of this prime family beach space than a fancy steak house.

PIZZA SNOB RATING ***1/2 Working on a Good Things

Acme Ice House
10343 E County Highway 30-A Seacrest Beach, FL  32413
850-502-5669
http://acmeicehouse.com/
 
 

If I behave myself, Mrs. Pie will let me stop for pizza along I-65 on our annual vacation drive to the Florida Panhandle. Timing has it that going down we stop in Montgomery while coming back it’s Birmingham. My pre-screened pick for this year’s return trip was the enticingly-named New York Pizza in Homewood, a small suburban community just south of Birmingham. Established in 1982, New York Pizza is in the Edgewood retail district about two miles from the Interstate.

The place was located in the middle of a city block, and we were able to park on the street right in front. I don’t know what scared her away, but Mrs. Pie took one look and decided to pass. Instead, she chose to leave me alone and visited the sandwich shop next door. At this late afternoon hour, New York Pizza was all but empty. They didn’t sell slices so I ordered a plain 12 inch cheese pizza for $11.50. In addition to pizza, they rounded out their fare with salads, calzones, pasta and subs.

Their room was spacious with a mix of tables and booths. I took a seat and watched some soccer on the overhead tube while I waited. After about ten minutes, disappointment immediately set in when my pie was delivered along with a disrespectful knife and fork. The small puffy pizza looked way too white, doughy and cheesy.

Plain and simple, this pie just wasn’t very good, and I quit after eating only about half. Preparation wise, although it was served hot, it was not crisp at all—most likely from the use of something less than a true pizza oven. Cooked the way it was, all that mushy cheese just made it a sloppy mess to eat. Although there clearly was not enough tomato sauce, what was there tasted way too sweet. The taste of the cheese was off as well being much too salty.

There’s really not much more to say. The pie was poorly cooked, and its taste was off from using non-standard ingredients. Homewood’s New York Pie clearly did not live up to expectations of the name they are using.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     ** Why Did I Waste Those Calories?

New York Pizza
1010 Oxmoor Road
Homewood, AL 35209
205-871-4000
http://thenewyorkpizza.com/

Knoxville, about a three-hour drive east from Nashville on Interstate 40, is a city that The Pizza Snob has seldom visited. Recently, my son, The Philosopher, and I made a trip there to see Elvis Costello at the drop-dead gorgeous historic Tennessee Theatre. This gave me to chance to knock another pizza joint off of my recommendations list. K-town’s The Tomato Head has been on my radar ever since the band Grizzly Bear bragged about it when I saw them play in Nashville.  After finally giving it a try, all I can say is that I would have thought these guys from Brooklyn would have better taste in pizza. While The Tomato Head looks to be a fine all-around restaurant, their pizza is nothing worthy for the band to write home about.

The Tomato Head has two Knoxville locations. We set out to visit the one in the Market Square near the theatre. The Market Square is a cool downtown spot where a city block of restaurants, bars and shops is separated by a wide pedestrian area where the street normally would be.  Arriving for an early dinner, we walked into the spiffy modern place past the fancy wine bar. We were soon seated at a table in the large dining room in view of one of the largest pizza ovens I have ever seen.

After some fabulous salads, we started in on a 14 inch plain cheese pie that set us back only $9.45. I was impressed to learn that during lunch hour they offer slices for $1.60—one of the best slice prices I’ve ever seen. However, even at these great prices, Tomato Head’s pizza is disappointing.

At first glance, I was surprised that they even got sloppy and failed to cut our pie symmetrically. It was quite puffed up in the dough department covered with shredded parm. By Snob rules, parm on top should always be an option. Flavor wise, despite this parm overload, it tasted downright flat except for the rather tart-tasting tomato sauce. The crust wasn’t the least bit crisp and the pie was heavy on all counts. In addition to the usual culprits of excess dough and cheese that have ruined many a pie, there was even too much sauce.

Unhappy, I had enough and quit after eating just three slices. On the other hand, probably since he lately has eaten one too many frozen pizzas, the pie-deprived Philosopher thought it was great. He also liked their menu of local beers.

As for me, I left feeling bloated and don’t plan on coming back. These guys need to do some homework about making a pizza more up to the standards of their restaurant.

PIZZA SNOB RATING     *** Better Than Dominos

The Tomato Head
12 Market Square
Knoxville, TN  37902
865-637-4067
http://thetomatohead.com